A Celebration of Culture

Malian Visa: $100. Vaccinations: $750. Plane ticket: $2,100. Mali: Priceless.

Often, travelers do not venture “off the beaten path,” becoming the “tourists” who only see the obvious. Only by moving beyond the traditional experiences does one begin to understand the culture that is Mali.

From the time we entered the dusty terrain that is Mali in March, we heard about “the joking cousins phenomenon,” the compounds (rather than houses), the extended “families,” the traditional foods, the market (“Your last, last price?”) and the life of Malians. But only on our last evening in this West African country did we truly EXPERIENCE Malian culture and become part of it.

Our experience began with a surprise from Assoumane: live music from four Malian musicians, three playing traditional African instruments. Dancing and clapping from the rooftop of Assoumane’s compound in the way one might in an African village, we enjoy a soft breeze as it lessens the waning heat of the setting sun. The music speaks of bringing peace to the world; we experience the peace of friendship and fellowship. Not only are Assoumane’s wife and two of his children among the revelers, but also everyone in his compound, it seems, has joined us for this event. Some of the women weave Rachel’s and Lora’s hair into “cornrows.” We play with the children. What a celebration!

In the darkening evening, we prepare to eat a traditional meal from Northern Mali, the area near Timbuktu, Assoumane’s native area. We wash as the Malians, using a pan and kettle of water poured over our hands by Assoumane. We sit together around a steaming bowl of toukassou, a dish not unlike roast beef with LARGE dumplings. We use our right hand to eat; no plates, silverware or napkins clutter the experience. We are like the Africans of the desert as we sit on the rooftop east of Bamako. We eat. We enjoy. We experience. The toukassou is followed by a second course, pomme frites and plantains, and complemented by sodas. We quickly are full and content.

As we leave our new friends, we share handshakes and hugs. As much as we are ready for the United States and its conveniences, it is hard to leave those who give so much and have so little. Oh, that we might learn from them.

Thank you, Assoumane and family, for making our experience in Mali more memorable and perfect than you can imagine. You are special. You are Mali.